Brendon Babenzien on J.Crew, Noah, Supreme, Music, and More

We’re starting 2024 off strong with Noah founder and J.Crew men’s creative director, Brendon Babenzien. He was also creative and design director of Supreme, having joined the company just a couple of years after its inception. He is credited with helping to steer it from a small skate brand to the streetwear behemoth it’s become today. The Long Island native’s path to style was not necessarily a conscious one. “That came from being a New Yorker involved in skating and surfing and really loving music,” he says. “It just goes there automatically because it's not a considered thing when you're young. There's style connected to those things, so if you're really interested in them, it's a natural extension.”

Below, Babenzien and I dive into his rich work history and cultural cachet, the beginnings of Noah, his role at J.Crew, his thoughts on technology and consumerism, and plenty more.

Fit One

Vintage leather jacket, CPO shirt by Noah, vintage belt, trousers by Wallace & Barnes, and hiking shoes by J.Crew.

At Supreme, Babenzien was right in the thick of it as the broader world started to co-opt skate and streetwear culture. "The clothing, the sneakers, the music, they all became these massive things," he says. "That’s when things started to change for me."

"Where things change with our business here at Noah is we don’t want to do things we don’t want to do," he continues. "We want to make the right decisions. We want to be true to what we really believe in."

Christopher Fenimore

Can you give me a rundown of your time at Supreme as creative director and why you decided to co-found your label Noah?

Supreme was a two-part thing for me. I was there for seven or eight years the first time, and seven or eight the second time, so somewhere between 14 or 15 years in total. When I first got there, it was early, '96, and the store opened in '94, so it was really early days. It was small when I got there, and every year we grew it. It forced me to learn a lot about finding factories and fabric suppliers and the design process itself and why this and not that. James [Jebbia] is as good an editor as anybody on the planet, so when you work with him, you're going to pick some things up. Obviously, the world was changing around the subculture. Call it skateboarding, or call it B-Boy culture, there's a sneaker component to both of those things. The world changed around them. Those things stayed the same, but then the world invaded them and they became something else entirely. We went from these small subcultures to multi-billion-dollar industries in and of themselves. The clothing, the sneakers, the music, they all became these massive things. That's when things started to change for me. It's hard to explain because I still felt those things were special, but I didn't really want to be as involved in the commercial side of it, at least not the size it got to.

Where things change with our business here at Noah is we don't want to do things we don't want to do. We want to make the right decisions. We want to be true to what we really believe in. What is our position on product and price? What is our position on a business’ responsibility in the world? Growth in and of itself isn't the enemy, but how do you behave with that growth? I had done Noah prior, [in 2002, between Supreme stints]. I had no money, and it was a mess, but it was interesting and cool, and people liked it.

Was it anything like Noah today?

Yeah, it wasn't that dissimilar to this. The second time around [in 2015] I was older. I lived more, I'd seen more, I carried more information about capitalism and commercial aspects and environmental stuff and all of that, which we were able to bring to the business with a more informed position.

Fit Two

Vintage fisherman sweater, jeans by Noah, boots by Hambleton for J.Crew, and cap by Dunn & Co.

"There’s what it looks like it is, and then there’s what it is," Babenzien says of his role as men’s creative director at J.Crew. "On paper, it’s obviously head of design, heavily involved in the marketing ideas for men’s. But the company’s really friendly and human, so there’s dialogue even outside of your space."

"I’ve never considered myself a true fashion person anyway," he says, "so I like the idea that I’m making clothes for people I grew up with and, now, those who might not be as interested in pushing it as far as I might."

Christopher Fenimore

What is your current role at J.Crew and what does it entail?

Men’s creative director—jeez, there's what it looks like it is, and then there's what it is. On paper, it's obviously head of design, heavily involved in the marketing ideas for men's. But the company's really friendly and human, so there's dialogue even outside of your space. The way we're working now, Olympia [Gayot], who is the women's creative director and head of design, and I have a good rapport. It gives me the opportunity to talk about different business ideas instead of just sitting in the design room. I have a really good relationship with Libby [Wadle], the CEO, so we get to talk about a lot of different things: infrastructure ideas, different potentials for the future, because I'm coming from a different place, and I'm not a full-time J.Crew person. To their credit, J.Crew is really open to hearing other points of view and other ideas. I can have an idea about anything and share it, and it won't necessarily be shunned. Even though I was hired as a creative director, I'm given the opportunity to have bigger conversations, which is super cool.

Styling choices can dictate who your customer is, and if you go too directional, you might risk cutting off hordes of people. With Noah I doubt that it’s much of a concern, but with J.Crew, I assume that’s more than considered. How do styling and editorial choices and subjects inform what you’re doing behind the scenes?

It's interesting because these days there are so many channels to show people things that you can still do it all. I can show looks in the look book or in a campaign, and then when we're showing you the new products that are releasing every week or month, we can pull it back a little bit and make it more accessible and understandable, and it's all relevant. When you're in the fashion business, you can forget that there's a huge amount of people who have good taste and style who aren't living in the same place as you. It doesn't discount that they’re customers, they're important, and they're people. What's been interesting for me is being forced to address that reality, because I don't have to do that at Noah. But at J.Crew I do, and I have to have a really healthy respect for those who don't want to wear the latest thing every day. But I've never considered myself a true fashion person anyway, so I like the idea that I'm making clothes for people I grew up with and, now, those who might not be as interested in pushing it as far as I might.

Fit Three

Coat by Drake’s, sweater and cap by Noah, shirt by J.Crew, trousers by Wallace & Barnes, and shoes by Paraboot.

When it comes to personal style, "I think people have to do whatever makes them comfortable, whatever is genuine to them," Babenzien says. "I recognize that that can be really hard, because I think a lot of people don’t even know what’s genuine to them."

"People are receiving a zillion messages a day of what you’re supposed to look like and who you’re supposed to be and what’s cool and what’s not cool, what defines success, all of these things," he continues. "The first thing for people to do is try to identify who they really are, what they really want to represent, how they feel, if they can just be honest about it."

Christopher Fenimore

You look at clothing and style quite philosophically. What advice do you have for someone who is feeling stagnated by their style or current wardrobe?

That's interesting because a lot of men probably don't think of it like that. "I wear what I wear and I do what I do," and their interests lie elsewhere, which is totally fine. They're not as interested in what they look like. If you actually are aware of it and you feel it, I think people have to do whatever makes them comfortable, whatever is genuine to them. I recognize that that can be really hard, because I think a lot of people don't even know what's genuine to them. They've been beat up by media and advertising and marketing, and people are receiving a zillion messages a day of what you're supposed to look like and who you're supposed to be and what's cool and what's not cool, what defines success, all of these things. The first thing for people to do is try to identify who they really are, what they really want to represent, how they feel, if they can just be honest about it. If you want to just dress super conservatively, cool; that's genuinely who you are, that's great. And if you want to go outside in your underwear and walk around—if that's what makes you feel good—then do that. That's the way I approach it, and I'm always encouraging people to just be their true selves. Truly individualistic, which in our society is really hard to do. The algorithm is trying to get everybody to buy the same thing.

In a similar philosophical vein, do you have a message for people who are addicted to buying clothing and conveying value and status through their wardrobe?

That's a dead-end street. That's pretty hollow. This idea that, “Well, if I buy the latest thing…” is no different than people buying big homes or cars or whatever. Eventually, if the rest of your life isn't in order, if you're not happy, if you're not feeling good about yourself or your friends and family and all the things that are really important, then no amount of new jackets or sneakers or whatever is going to make you happy. And it's also wasteful in other ways. Financially, it's wasteful. You could be spending your money on experiences and creating memories rather than buying something that, quite honestly, is a crap shoot. There are some things that a couple of years ago, people were buying, spending a lot of money on things, and they didn't hold up. But if you take that money and you travel somewhere and you meet some people and you see some things that's going to be with you for the rest of your life.

Fit Four

Jacket by Alpha Industries x Noah, Sinead O’Connor T-shirt, belt and jeans by Noah, and loafers by J.Crew.

"It’s funny: When I look at pictures of myself as a teenager, it’s kind of the same," Babenzien says of his own style. "There are things that bubble up and things that evolve, but it’s been pretty consistent. Which I don’t credit myself for very often, but I’m proud of that."

"Newer music’s hard for me. I try to hear new stuff as often as I can, but there’s so much information now and a lot less editing going on," he says. "But Olivia Rodrigo is pretty sick...On some level, she’s almost touching on teenage emotion in the way The Smiths did."

Christopher Fenimore

What do you think definition of personal style is, and have you sensed many shifts in yours through various gigs and milestones?

It's what we've been talking about: being honest about who you are and letting that guide your choices, which I think a lot of people haven't had the strength to do in a lot of ways. They're being overpowered by the world around them. As it relates to my personal style, there have not been that many shifts. There have definitely been tangents over the years; when you're younger, you experiment more. But honestly, it's not that different. It’s funny: When I look at pictures of myself as a teenager, it's kind of the same. There are things that bubble up and things that evolve, but it's been pretty consistent. Which I don't credit myself for very often, but I'm proud of that.

I know music is huge for you. Are there any newer acts or albums from the past few years you're loving or some all-time favorites?

Newer music's hard for me. I try to hear new stuff as often as I can, but there’s so much information now and a lot less editing going on. About a year ago there was a window of time where I started hearing all these newer acts, like this group Momma. Because of the way things work, once I listened to Momma, my machines started feeding me all this other bands and I really liked them. I'm not much of a pop music person, but Olivia Rodrigo is pretty sick. My daughter loves her, so I have to hear it constantly, and I'm fairly impressed with the themes and the subject matter and the emotional understanding. On some level, she's almost touching on teenage emotion in the way The Smiths did. Now that I'm much older, I'm giving myself more permission to access pop music.

Fit Five

Suit and belt by Noah, shirt and loafers by J.Crew, and tie by Lochcarron of Scotland.

When he’s not working, "I get out of the city when I can just to get out by the beach," Babenzien says. "Surfing is my favorite thing to do. I’ll run as much as I can to just keep me moving and keep active, and then I’ll still skate occasionally."

"Skateboard culture is the most important one," he continues. "The community of people that are drawn to skateboarding historically are really creative and progressive in their thinking. I always want to be connected to that; if you grow up skateboarding in a serious way, you never leave it behind. You see the world through that lens."

Christopher Fenimore

When you're not working how do you spend your downtime if you're ever not working?

These days, and most of us are always working because it follows us on our phones. You can't get away from emails and text messages. I obviously spend time with my family. I get out of the city when I can just to get out by the beach. Surfing is my favorite thing to do. I'll run as much as I can to just keep me moving and keep active, and then I'll still skate occasionally. It's getting more and more rare it as I get older and I need to do something about that. Skateboard culture is the most important one. The community of people that are drawn to skateboarding historically are really creative and progressive in their thinking. I always want to be connected to that; if you grow up skateboarding in a serious way, you never leave it behind. You see the world through that lens. Even if you're not skating, you're driving down the street and you see something and you're like, "Oh, that's super skateable. Look at that bank over there. Look at that set of stairs.”

If you had to wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it consist of?

If I'm picking one outfit that defines me and I want people to know who I am through what I'm wearing, it might just be a pair of jeans, penny loafers and a Cure t-shirt. Musically, you're going to know what I'm about just by the T-shirt. Loafers to me walk the line between, depending on who's wearing them, either preppy or a little bit punky, new-wave-y as well. That's kind of malleable, which I like.

ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7pr%2FQrqCrnV6YvK570q2wpZ1forKvv4yfmKygmaS7cK2Tb2lycGFnfXCu0Z6lnaeeYq%2BirsSnsaKdnmK3bq%2FRnq5mpp%2BWtW6%2F1KmpnqWVYrOqwsRmnaKso2LEqsDHaA%3D%3D

 Share!

• Share on Facebook
   
• Tweet
   
• Share on Google+
   
• Post to Tumblr
   
• Pin it
   
• Submit to Reddit