Living in New York City, I am lucky enough to be a subway ride away from what is arguably the best place for cured meats outside Italy: Faicco’s, the Italian paradise of pork. The deli has brought high quality meats and specialties to the West Village since 1900, as well as what I contend is the best Italian hero this side of the Atlantic.
But as good as Faicco’s is, it wasn’t until I went to the South Tyrol region of northern Italy that I understood what cured pork can be, and the magic that is speck of the Dolomites.
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All this I write with a tinge of guilt. As a former vegetarian (well, pescatarian, really) and unapologetic environmentalist (my Twitter feed is a steady stream of subway rants and calls to save orangutans) it feels wrong to write about, even encourage, such an indulgence. But Italian speck happened, and nothing was the same.
I was dragged to the mountain range of the Dolomites (what torture!) by my husband who, on a whim, entered an online lottery for the Maratona dles Dolomites, an annual July bike race that traverses some 80 miles of mountain roads. To both of our surprises, he got in. The prospect of riding even one of the course’s unrelenting hills inspired me to immediately plot my hotel-lazing, magazine-reading, spritz-drinking schedule. We found a group, inGamba Tours, to help with the bike logistics and were housed in what I have come to believe is the best hotel in the region: La Perla. This was to be home base, where my shameless, gluttonous revelry could ensue whilst husband nobly engaged in extreme cardio.
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The very first night at La Perla, our plate of speck arrived: tantalizing tendrils sliced ever-so-thin, paired with an exquisite wine. It surely would be the definition of torture to see this carnivorous spoils-di-speck laid out on the most rustic of wooden plates alongside crusty breads and tangy local cheeses and be forced to resist. Thus began the love affair.
Speck is uncooked, salted, and smoked pork that’s been aged anywhere from six months to two years. It tastes similar to prosciutto or ham, with a bit more bite than the former but is more delicate than the latter. It’s often served with a dollop of homemade horseradish and pickled cucumbers.
It surely would be the definition of torture to see this carnivorous spoils-di-speck and be forced to resist.What’s so unique about this meat is that it is produced exclusively in this part of the world, an area where customs and traditions are a true melting pot of German, Italian, and Ladin cultures. Speck produced in the South Tyrol often carries the European Union's special Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status as “Speck Alto Adige Sudtirol,” verifying that it was produced under strict, time-honored methods.
An associate at one store confirmed that speck is so good in the Dolomites because, “It’s from here!” Smoking pork was a way to utilize and preserve the whole animal, and it became a specialty of the South Tyrol since it wasn’t easy to bring food in and out of the mountains, he explained in rough English. These days, it's as common as bagels in New York, and not much more expensive.
ARUTTHAPHON POOLSAWASD//Getty ImagesThe Dolomites in South Tyrol
There are dozens of varieties of speck, which differ based on the appearance of fat versus red meat within the cut. The traditional version is smoked pork leg, though you can also find rump speck, loin speck, and fillet speck—all from the pig’s hindquarters. The spice and smoke combination for each is one unique to its maker, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a local who will articulate the recipe. Generally the pork is wood-smoked and rubbed with herbs and spices local to the alpine region.
One of the most popular brands of speck to buy in stores is from the Braito family, which has been smoking pork for more than 60 years in the mountain cellars of Daino, in the Fiemme Valley. Tito Braito’s stores, Il Maso Dello Speck (“The Farm of Speck”), can be found in cities like Bolzano and Trento, as well as in smaller villages. Bottom line is, once you’ve made it into the mountains, you’ll not be wanting for speck to bring home to all your privileged loved ones.
Now, here are some tips to make sure you select the right bits to buy and bring back. If such a thoughtful local gift doesn’t inspire them to add the Dolomites to their bucket lists… well, then they must be pescatarians.
Go with simple.
The traditional style is a crowd pleaser. It has just the right amount of fat to make it supple and an aromatic smoke that will complement any cheese plate you prepare at home. Not to mention it will put all other non-speck cheese plates to shame.
Get it freshly cut and vacuum-packed.
You might be tempted to pick up one of the pre-cut, pre-wrapped bricks from a barrel. Head to the counter instead. Almost every store where you can buy a hunk of speck will also have a vacuum sealer at the ready. Not only will the store’s meat-master cut a perfect slab, he or she will also cut off any sharp edges that might cut through the plastic, and any moldy bits. (Yes, cold-curing does naturally cause mold to develop on the outside edges.)
Stay away from the refrigerator.
If you plan to open up the speck and binge in your hotel room, the refrigerator section has tons of options. But if you want to get your meat all the way home across an ocean, make sure you choose one of the dry, non-refrigerated varieties, preferably the traditional or reserve styles.
Don’t be afraid to ask how to best serve your selection.
Some specks are best served sliced as thinly as possible, with a meat-slicer. (I personally do not own such a machine and found out rather quickly that the local deli was not very sympathetic to my meat-slicing needs; they wouldn’t cut anything “from outside.”) Some specks are just as good cut with a knife, or even cubed and cooked within customary Dolomiti dishes like knodel, a kind of savory dumpling.
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